5/5/2023 0 Comments In silence mapIn April 2022, French climber Sébastien Bouin – a frequent climbing partner of Ondra – established the world's second-ever 9c (5.15d) route, which he called DNA, in the La Ramirole cave, Verdon Gorge in France it also remains unrepeated (2023). Ondra's first ascent of the route was documented in the 2018 film, Silence. Each step on the difficulty scale really has to be a noticeable step in the actual difficulty of the route". 9c + or even 10a would have to be much, much more difficult if we don't want to inflate the difficulty scale in the future either. In a 2020 interview, Ondra was asked if the route could actually be higher than 9c, he responded: "No, certainly not. Knowing it was so much harder gives me the courage to say it is the world’s first at this level (9c)". Because grades in climbing are subjective, I am a fan of making big gaps between climbing grades. Ondra described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c (5.15d) rating, telling The Guardian, "Everyone knows what it means to run 100-meters in a world record time. While the route was originally named Project Hard by Ondra, a few days after completion he renamed it Silence, stating that when climbing it he felt a sense of inner quiet, and that on completion he felt unable to scream in exhilaration, his trademark reaction on completing a climb. It was too much joy, relief, and excitement all mixed together". All I could do was just hang in the rope, feeling tears in my eyes. On completion, Ondra said: "At the end of the route when I knew I did it, I had one of the strangest emotions ever", and "I clipped the anchor and I could not even scream. After 40 days of climbing spread over 7 visits from 2016 to 2017, Ondra free climbed the route on 3 September 2017. Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training techniques for the route, including muscle work for the various critical kneebar rest positions, and route visualization for the sustained disorientation of the overhanging terrain. After retrying it in 2015 and working through some of the technical challenges, Ondra began to commit more time to the project calling it "my lifetime goal", in a 2016 interview with Climbing. Ondra bolted the route in 2012–2013 – while he climbed Change 9b+ (5.15c) at Flatanger, the world's first 9b+ – but dropped the project for a period saying: "I could sort of imagine doing the individual moves, but I could see that linking the whole sequence, with its 8C boulder, all the way from the ground just looked way too ridiculous". As of April 2023, Silence remains unrepeated. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain. When Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first free ascent on 3 September 2017, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of 9c (5.15d), and it is an important route in rock climbing history. Silence (also Project Hard), is a 45-metre (148 ft) severely overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave, in Flatanger, Norway.
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